Nanak Math, Kathmandu as on March 15, 2019

I had the privilege to work at Trishuli Hydel Project Nepal on behalf of Government Of India between July 1973- June 1975. As a part of job I also stayed in Kathmandu at our Guest house at Balaju near the Power Sub Station. On my office routine to going to Indian Embassy, I used to pass through this small rivulet known as Bishnumati. When at times, my driver used to tell me and point me in the corner small hill which was known as 'Nanak Math'. I asked if there was any Gurdwara to which his usual reply was a 'no', but yes he further added that there was only a stone where perhaps Guru Nanak had set his foot and meditated near by. I foolishly took it casually and never bothered to request the driver to halt the Government vehicle  to see myself that place. 
Later on I felt repented so much in my life as to have missed that opportunity to smell the same fresh air form same old trees where my Guru Nanak had spent his time here for more than a year meditating while on his 3rd Udaasi (long Journey).

   Books on Kathmandu are silent about the Shrine. It is not on the tourist map. No coaches park below the small forested hill by the river on the road to Balaju. The 'Math' is left to bird song and the occasional visitor who either knows it is there or by chance comes upon the small weathered sign which says, "Guru Nanak Math". As per Governmental revenue records, this place is still registered in the name of Guru Nanak.
There are in all five historical Gurdwaras in Kathmandu; the most famous being "Nanak Math" situated on the bank of river Bishnumati. This historical Gurdwara is related to the third journey of Guru Nanak Dev Ji when he visited Nepal. It is said that Guru Nanak Sahib actually stayed here for some time and mediated at this serene site. He asked Bhai Mardana to play upon the rabab and himself sang one of his hymns. The yogis and ascetics of other cults gathered around the Guru and held discussions. At that time, the King of Nepal, Raja Jai Jagat Malla was very impressed with Guru Ji’s discourse and he donated many acres of land to spread religious beliefs as guided by Guru Ji. A description of this land is secured even today in the documents of the revenue department. At present, the Gurdwara has 4 acres of land and the remaining land is encroached upon. 

An arching stairway leads through trees and bamboo to the small building which from the outside looks like any Nepali farmhouse. To climb up the stairs was refreshing even though a bit breathless. The city, which now encroaches on the fields about the hill, is so screened by greenery that one can almost forget its existence. The busy sound of traffic trails further and further behind. Through openings in the trees can be seen the river and a high mountain. A small grassy clearing just before the house is just the kind of place a weary traveler would have welcomed. Cool. Quiet. Undisturbed.

A stone slab with two carved feet marking the spot where Guru Nanak lay in meditation at the Shrine. The doorway to the lime-washed house is plastered with ochre earth. The black painted door is small in the way of old Nepal, so one stoops to enter. An old man is having discussions with another man and seeing us he gets up welcoming us. He affirms that it was indeed ‘Nanak Math’ His scary dog, however, keeps away from us. 

The old man seems is the man in charge of the shrine  or Mahant named as Naiyam Muni Udasi. He is very much willing to show us round. He opens the lock on a sealing door which opens up to an Attic. As we barefooted step up the fixed steep stairs, we lead into a colorfully decorated hall. I saw this big room decorated with colorful pictures Udassi Sant’s, Sikh Gurus, Hindu God Lord Shiva, Vishnu, Parvati, Hanuman, Baba Pashupatinath and others.
The old Nepali looking man with beard we call Mahant, seems to be the Priest of Udaseen Panth. We come across a Granth Sahib (not sure Guru or not) laid under a Canopy same way as we place Sri Guru Granth Sahib. We pay our due regards and make some offerings in the same way as we do in a Gurdwara Sahib.  He also comes and  sits with us for volunteering more details. He gives us the tour of the shrine. He further mentions that many Sikh leaders and personalities like late Giani Zail Singh, Parkash Singh Badal, and even Kakkar  President of the SGPC have visited this Place but none have come with any sold plan to develop this shrine.  Even the plans of Mr Oberoi are still in the air. 

We find ‘Parkash’ of the Granth under the canopy is supposed to have written by Sri Prithi Chand, the son of Sri Guru Nanak. All these facts and others have to be researched and put forward by eminent Scholars and Archives Specialists It would be tragedy if modern hungers consume the trees and push concrete within reach of the unscrupulous people.

Obviously the lovely, lonely Guru Nanak Math is in need of a Sikh Scholarly leader with support from SGPC to unravel its truths and legends. Until then it will remain a half-forgotten temple on a wooded hill threatened by the brick and concrete advances of Kathmandu.

Two Tree Branches from the trees around have been brought as 'Relics' which Harvinder believes that they must have the same fragrance as was inhaled by Guru Nanak Dev ji